It's not a road trip without some car shots

By the end of the trip I had driven 1500 kms in the old Toyota Corolla. Despite being stopped on more than one occasion by the police, often for no apparent reason, no fine or bribe was paid for once. On one occasion my patience was properly tested as I had to wait 45 minutes and play an odd bluffing game before getting my license back.

The only small mishap was the windscreen ending up with a big crack - I’m not sure how it happened, but I suspect it was due to a change in temperature, the AC blasting on the screen after the car had been sitting in the sun a while. 

Some of the shots featured on the previous blog posts are part of a couple of small projects and series on Sri Lanka, but most are outtakes. The projects and series will soon be up on my new website which I’m currently putting the finishing touches on. 

Saint Anne's church, Kalpitiya

Taken on the coast behind Saint Anne’s church on Kalpitiya. 

Car roof reflection, Jaffna / Velanai causeway

Taken on the island of Velanai,just before the causeway linking it to Jaffna. The sky is reflected off the roof of the car. 

Rearview mirror, Velanai island

Taken on the desolate and flat island of Velanai.

Final stop, second part: Jaffna surroundings

At a Hindu festival on the small island of Pungudutivu, near Jaffna

During my staff in Jaffna I ventured out of town on a few days. I made a trip to Point Pedro, mainly to see the old, abandoned Saint Anthony’s church and its graveyard, now swamped by sand dunes.

Graveyard on dunes, Point Pedro

I also ventured to Nainativu island to have a peek at the Hindu temple.

Cow, Nainativu

The journey there involves crossing a few causeways linking small, desolate islands off the coast of Jaffna and a final 20 minute ferry ride to Nainativu island. On the way there I stumbled across a Hindu festival and observed the locals give one of the many shrines its annual and highly celebrated outing on a chariot around the temple (photo at the top).

Nainativu itself is practically empty bar the temple, a few shops and houses and a recently built Buddhist temple. 

Shop, Nainativu

Finally, I also returned to Velanai island and explored the eerily, empty town of Kayts. 

Downtown, Kayts

Here are a couple of more shots from my outings. 

Ray, Point Pedro

Some recently caught ray on the beach in Point Pedro.

Shop under a palm, Jaffna outskirts

A small shop perched under the shade of palm tree on the outskirts of Jaffna. 

Jaffna Peninsula

Below are a few shots taken on the Jaffna peninsula in the very north of Sri Lanka. 

The landscape here is flat; so flat that along the the causeways and coastal roads, water and land seem to merge into one, neither element dominating the horizon. There are no spectacular vistas like those the hill country has to offer, and most of the few towns around are half-deserted. Still, these features, or lack of, only add to the singularity of a place which has a distinctive feel to it.

The goats and the boat

A goat walks along Point Pedro’s coastal road while other goats take a rest on a boat. 

Keerimalai spring, near JaffnaMen enjoying a swim in Keerimalai springs, part of Naguleswaram temple, north of Jaffna. There is a separate pool for women only. 

Casuarina Beach, Karainagar, Jaffna District

Casuarina beach on the island of Karainagar is one of the peninsula’s best beaches and quite popular on week-ends. 


Fishermen beat their fishing nets off the coast of Ponnalai. 

Thai Pongal celebrations in Jaffna

One of the most important festivals for Tamil-Hindus, Thai Pongal, takes place every year on 14 January. Apart from being celebrated in Tamil Nadu, it is also celebrated by Tamil-Sri Lankans all over the country.

Thai Pongal is part of a 4-day harvest festival celebrated to thank the Sun God for its contribution to a successful harvest. In Tamil, ‘Pongal’ means 'overflowing’, as in an abundance of something. Thai Pongal is followed by Maatu Pongal, a day when the cows are in turn celebrated for their contribution to the working of the land. 

On the morning of Thai Pongal, families traditionally prepare a Pongal dish (rice, milk and spices) in the morning which they then share with relatives and neighbours. Most families will then visit a Kovil to attend a Puja and make offerings.


Nallur Kandaswamy temple is Jaffna’s most famous. It was impossible to get shots of the Puja here as photography inside is unfortunately strictly prohibited.


One of the first devotees to visit Nallur temple in the early morning on Thai Pongal makes a prayer after having smashed a coconut. This ritual is symbolic of course, the coconut representing one’s own ego which should regularly be 'smashed’ to attempt to remain humble.


Looking into Nallur Kandaswamy kovil.

In order to get some shots of Puja on Thai Pongal, I visited Nallur Sivan Kovil, just across the road. The local, charismatic Swamy was extremely welcoming and with only a small crowd was present, the experience was much more accessible to a non-Hindu foreigner than in the busier Nallur Kandaswamy temple. After the Puja, the Pongal dish was served to all present and musicians played traditional Hindu music on the nadaswaram (long flute) and thavil (percussion), before an Indian violinist visiting from the UK played for a good half-hour.


Many children helped out with the Puja in Nallur Sivan Kovil.

The Swamy pours water to thank the God of Water for contributing to the harvest. 


The Swamy lights candles which he holds to the sky, thanking the Sun God for its contribution to the harvest.

See all photos and more in large by clicking here.



The Sangupiddy Bridge on the new A32 which runs from Mannar to Jaffna.

Jaffna has, unfortunately, pretty much become synonymous with the Sri Lankan civil war which plagued the island for 26 years. There are many obvious links. For instance, Prabhakaran grew up in Valvettithurai, a town a few kilometers outside of Jaffna. It was also nearby that the LTTE ambushed a patrol of the Sri Lanka Army, killing 13, on 23 July 1983. This attack sparked ’Black July’; generally regarded as the start of the war between the Sri Lankan government and the LTTE. And perhaps most notably, it was occupied by the LTTE on two occasions during the war, for a total of 6 years.


One of the many abandoned houses on Jaffna peninsula. 

Traveling through Jaffna peninsula one can’t but notice the numerous abandoned houses, some of them shelled and bullet-ridden, others overtaken by the vegetation and many simply left to slowly decay. Despite these regular reminders of the war, Jaffna’s rich cultural heritage and diversity are still prevalent.

For over 300 years Jaffna was once a Kingdom until the Portuguese invaded in 1620. Not long after the Dutch took over, and the city became an important port in the region. The British came in at the tail-end of the 18th century and stayed till Sri Lanka gained independence in 1948. It was during the British rule that more Tamils were brought over from India as they were considered more cooperative and hard-working than the Sinhalese. Before the war the population was still considerably mixed though, with Tamils, Moors and Sinhalese. During the fighting the Moors and Sinhalese were forced out and many Tamils also left, choosing to flee. In the span of 14 years the population nearly halved. Nevertheless, Jaffna remains Sri Lanka’s Hindu-Tamil cultural and religious centre and is now trying to rebuild a future after years of seeing progress being stifled by the war.


This home belonged to this man’s parents and he grew up until the land became a High Security Zone and was occupied by the Sri Lankan Army in the eighties. 25,000 people were evacuated in total. 20 years later the house and surrounding land was handed back to him after he provided all the necessary documentation to prove his ownership. The house is in disrepair so he is forced to rent a place. He now uses the land to run a small timber mill.

Jaffna, downtown

A street cobbler waits for customers on the steps of Jaffna’s central market.

Beach road, Jaffna

Children play near a Church on Beach road, Jaffna.

Beach road, Jaffna

A young teen watches two fishermen bring a boat in, on Beach road, Jaffna.